Friend Shaw:
Although four thousand miles now lay between us and months have passed
away since we last saw each other, yet if you have been absent from my
sight, you have not from thought. Many, very many, times you occur to my
mind and whenever anything now appears in wood, its usual and common with us
to say what would Mr. Shaw think of this. Its an occurrence that happens
daily. This will you be kept in rememberance by both me and my family until
time shall be no more, but my dear fellow, you will be saying this is no
news, but remember I calculate Richardson has given you an account of our
voyage and my situation which I am glad to say so far has been a good, a
very good change, yet not the place I mean finally to settle in that being
900 miles further to the West in the state called Illinois, but we will
sojourn here for perhaps 12 that pockets may be better lined with dollars.
On my first gaining sight of America, Long Island first appeared in view.
The whole shore for miles studded with cedar trees which then had just got
in leaf the light green shade of which reflecting on the waters from our
ship had a most imposing effect when we anchored and went ashore. All seemed
very strange contrasted with English scenery but which tended to give a
higher zest to the minds eye.
Staten Island at the Mouth of the River, seven miles below New York, was
my first landing place where I had a glass of Brandy to the health of my old
friends in England and confusion to my enemies. On entering New York and
traveling through along street called Washington, close to the river, I was
surprised at the quantities of Mahogany logs, planks and boards in the
street laying in confused careless masses (in a similar situation, they
would soon have been missing in England). I was much pleased by the numerous
saw mills with saws of every description from the breaker up of logs to the
small turning saw of ˝" broad and _______. They were cutting sweeps of
all sorts from __________bark. They were cutting to the _______bevil just
requisite for the chair now you____________________minds and could I have
sent you a bundle, it would have been gratifying.
The first shop I entered in New York was a Coffin Maker where some dozens
of many sized coffins were placed on end, all cedar and mahogany, highly
varnished with brass hinges on the lid at the broadest part, to admit it
being opened at the head without removing the whole lid. The beautiful
dappled and boa eyed maple chairs in abundance, all varnished mahogany,
drawers highly varnished and invariably glass handles to them and all sorts
of furniture but let that suffice, I could fill a sheet with explanations.
Our passage up here 160 miles was beautiful. On each side the river here
is such stacks of lumber as they call the timber and saw mills for cutting
into boards for flooring and machines from the same power to plane and grove
where they reckon of doing six per minute. I have seen a shaving would
almost make you a suit of clothes, so much for Yankee Ingenuity – but what
would gratify you most would be the bass wood, fine boards without a knot,
light and tough, will not split with nails and is used for many purposes,
all what they call white wood, although of a greenish striped color, large
boards no knot fine silky planning, used in doors for paneling instead of
deal and also for Coach panels ( I wish you had a Cargo at Retford, then you
would be proud.
Tell George Hanes, I saw Uncle Sam at New York, also Charles Brumby.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Troy 1837
Dear Sir:
About twelve months have elapsed since I left you at Sheffield, the time
calls to my remembrance your last request that I would write you which I
certainly should have done sooner had not I known you would receive
communications from William and that my letter must contain some information
appertaining to your line which it was impossible for me to give on a
transient observation of a month or two. Our passage from Liverpool to New
York you no doubt have heard all about either through my letter to
Richardson or by those you have received from Brooklyn.
After staying at York above a week we took steam boat to this place, 160
miles up the River Hudson and arrived here on the fifteenth of June and
resided here ever since, taken and furnished a very good house and are all
employed at the same factory, Wm. and Robt. Working by the week, Edw. And
self by the piece where we have hitherto done very well indeed.
With respect to gardening, it here appears all in its infancy. Few, very
few individuals, however wealthy, have one of any sort attached to their
Dwellings, the want of taste seems to arise from the difficulty of getting
experience men to follow the occupation. Those that do cultivate the ground
for rearing of vegetables seems careless of raising anything but those of
the commonest sort or which wants no after attention. In most instances
their Gardens are ploughed and planted.
*************************
But my dear fellow, don’t picture to yourself that money is to be
realized here without hard work, people must be both industrious and steady
(?) to get along but I know you are not afraid of digging. I wish you
you had been with me a few days back seeing them sowing Indian corn, you
would have blown them up for their slovenly manners, yet everything
attending both farming and gardening is done in the same way. It would be
advisable any gardener coming from England to bring both seeds and slips of
bushes. Those that bears winters best as some are severe – yet generally
_________.
*************************
___________________from the great influx of people, few can indulge
themselves with fire) consisting of a house with cellar under three bed
chambers and good garrett which would well hold two beds, good yard and wood
shed with plenty of water at the door from newly erected water works in the
vicinity, rent and water charge 81_______per annum, no taxes of any
description for a tenant to pay. It’s a wood frame house painted white
with green venetian blinds to the outside of all the windows of which there
is eleven (no window tax). The steps in front is on the outside with rails
and seat on each side. Where the door in the shade of the locust trees that
stand on the streets by the curbstone where it is very pleasant in an autumn
evening to sit and smoke your pipe which I have done many times ruminating
on my late unfortunate situation at Retford, gratified at getting clean of
the villainous chicanery used to ruin me and contemplating on my future
prospects in the new world; thus far I have everything to be thankful for,
for we have begun housekeeping and furnished house pretty decently (sofa and
cane back chairs to wit) out of debt and saved about twenty pounds sterling,
oftimes wishing some of my new friends at Retford was here with the same
prospect of doing something as well for their family.
Give our kindest respects to your worthy wife and sister, to Eliza and
all your children. Many times they are talked about, more especially when
their little faces come in view, also to Mr. And Mrs. Cuttell, Mr. And Mrs.
Cooke, Eardrons Jane, Batty and wife and Hopkinson and wife and I’ll not
forget his offer when they thought we had not a bed to lay upon. Lamsell and
wife______. Tell Richardson I am looking___________.
*********************
Cascades and falls the most conspicuous of which is called Little falls
in Oneida County about 150 miles from here and the fills of Cohoes about
four miles from here which I have been to see the grandeur of which cannot
even give you an idea, being far past any language in my vocabulary; on an
adjacent hill to this town, there is a very commanding view of the falls, to
the West at forty miles distant stand towering the Catskill Mountains
seeming all covered with forests and which never yet felt the tread of man.
This town is called East Troy on the opposite side of the river. West Troy is the arsenal for the whole state of New York and said to be the
largest in the whole state. They employ many workmen manufacturing arms,
harness and carriages. It’s a very beautiful place but the discipline
seems strange to Englishmen. The soldiers seem to work same as other men,
ledge where they choose and dress as the choose except on very particular
days, when they want soldiers they advertise in the newspapers, so many men
of good moral character which will be allowed with _________for their
services which is specified. The Citizens forms themselves into companys of
perhaps fifty in a regiment on parade days. Some are in full dress of the
corps. Some with their own clothes and perhaps a gun, without a gun lock,
others with a large walking stick and some with an umbrella for their for
their arms, such a motley set must be seen to be truly charactures by an old
English soldier.
My first motive for coming to this town was that I might be on the direct
route by canal to the far west, but from the wife and Anna being fatigued
with traveling, and a Norfolk Farmer and his family which had come with us
in the same ship and with whom we had become very intimate, having settled
here a few days previous to our arrival, I determined to sojourn here until
we learned more of the customs and manners of the people (which I assure you
at first appear very strange) and from the inducements ______.
**********************
Broad river running to the North West but not available to navigation, it
being full of rapids and falls one of which is called the Cohoe’s falls.
About 4 miles up I have been to see and although not much thought on here is
most Majestic – it is still useful by the enterprise of man – they have
diverted some of the waters into another channel and on the back side have
formed saw mills, foundries and other purposes wanted water power after
which the water falls again into the river, the falls are about 70 feet and
perhaps 500 broad.
On our journey from New York, the passage is very interesting, the hill
and dale, the woods, rocks and cultivated lands with beautiful villages and
towns and Fishermen shantys squandered here and there, with the Catskill
Mountains and other places, the scene of Cooper Novel of the Spy (by the by
we have your volume which had got packed up in our hurry) makes it very
interesting.
William and Robert has gone to work at one Eaton and Gilbert where they
employ 75 hands and so full of work that its surprising. Every place they
have is filled, otherwise Edward and me would also have been there. In a
fortnight I expect us going either there or to Albany where we will stay
until spring and then proceed to the west. The spirit of enterprise is
surprising and with such prospects of success, few, very few have reason to
complain, yet the wide field is Westward in the Ohio and Michigan states.
Four years ago, Detroit, at the head of Lake Erie, contained 3,000
inhabitants. It now counts above 12,000 where they say everything goes ahead
and where the land is particularly rich, climate more suitable to English,
the summer and winter milder than here although I have not as yet found any
inconvenience from the heat. Some days last week the glass was at 94 yet I
have felt the heat more oppressive in England. The fine showers___________,
they would be most gratifying both to your mind and conducive to your health
–ah, Mr. Holmes had I your means, not many days should bind me in Retford.
A domicile for your children for ages to come of as fine ___________there is
many good buildings and many very moderate but what gives it such a pleasing
effect is the fanciful way the outside of the house is decorated, the broad
foot paths and the shading trees that stands about every 10yds by the curb
stone. After getting lodging I went to the Coachmakers but very little is
done in New York, all repositorys from different factorys in other states. I
was surprised to see the hundreds of new carriages standing in care place
all of one description for South America.
I visited Brooklyn, a most Beautiful city on Long Island where all seemed
spirit and enterprise. Then I took steamboat and went up the Passaic River
about 30 miles to Newark in New Jersey. This I think a more beautiful place
still and where coachmaking is carried on to an immense extent, one man
named Edinburg employing 250 men, all for the Southern Market. I returned
by the railway to the Hudson and crossed to New York – we had been now a
week in York at an immense expense for I assure you they make strangers pay
dear. When we took steamboat for Troy, 160 miles North of New York on the
River Hudson but the direct route to the West. Here we have been since the
15th of June; on the 27th, we took a house at 61/2
dollars per month, a nice appearing very good and pleasant situation, and a
particular pleasant open town on the East side of the River surrounded by
hills and a good deal of wood land. It is seven miles above Albany, the
oldest city in the State where the Senate sits, one of the members of which
resides in this town by name – Kimble – a jointer here. This county
sends 2. A gentleman told me when he came to reside here 27 years ago there
was but three houses and his father refused to purchase the whole place for
500 pounds. At present, it contains about 17,000 and rapidly increasing. The
building in progress is astonishing and good situations for trademen.
Immensely dear (here a place with John Hudson’s speculative idea to make a
rapid fortune in laying out building lots, I think not ___________20 new
streets are now laid out and will be as rapidly____
*********************
its now twelve months since I left Retford with feelings, I assure you,
very different from what I have at present. Then my mind was filled with
anxiety, perplexed and absorbed with thoughts, regrets at leaving my native
land, and the dread of a sea voyage, and fearful surmises of what might be
my future condition, with a family all looking to me for advice, from want
of experience themselves resting solely upon my decision for their future
home which perhaps by one false step might be made more uncomfortable than
even their late one at Retford; thus situated with a light, a very light
purse, and a heavy foreboding mind, I entered America. Such pleasing
prospects as I wont to read in England in the works of Evans, Birksbush,
Flint and the several extracts in the Edinburgh Journal on the resources and
capabilities of the United States, I must confess seemed to my first
observations impossible to ever be realized by me but now changeable our
very nature, as I proceeded, I felt a greater confidence and in a unison of
ideas gradually giving way to my first impression and adopting them, which
soon became more congenial than at first possible to think it would do –
at present I have no fear for the future, being confident any part of the
States with a family like mine we can do well) and I find as we properly
become acquainted with men and things that we will all like it more so.
Our winter commenced on the 16 Dec. with sharp frost which in a few days
was succeeded by a heavy fall of snow nearly two feet deep, the river all
frozen over and marinetime communication stopped completely. Cart, wagons
and carriages all laid aside and sleighs introduced of every shape and grade
from the most exquisite and expensive to the humble others cutter, some
having one, two and occasionally four horses which go suddenly along at an
immense pace, the only notice of their approach is by a parcel of small
bells fixed on a leather strap buckled around the horses and as they go
along tinkling different sounds which is both pleasing and harmonious. This
is the season for pleasure parties when each individual with their coats and
cloques trimmed with fur, fur gloves and mocassin shoes with fur caps to
their brain and brainless heads, and wrapped up in their fanciful formed
bison or Buffalo robes – they feel as independent a any London lord mayor
on the Ninth of November.
The frost continued almost without a thaw until the middle of February
when it gradually became milder the 20th of March when the ice in
the river broke from its mooring. In two days it all disappeared and
steamboats again commenced. Some days it was very cold, one particularly in
January, it was 22 below zero, therefore, you may suppose good fires was in
request which are all most invariably of wood – burnt in stoves, placed in
the center of the room with sheet iron piping which conveys the heat from
one room to another, they are made of various shapes and suited to the
situation, some for cooking others very elegantly fitted up to expressly to
throw out heat – firewood very dear about 7 dollars a cord or what you
would buy in Retfords for 9 shillings. A common sized stove will cost about
11/2SS a week to supply it but although it is so intensely cold, its really
beautiful weather, clear, light elastic air and bright sun – even the moon
and stars I think, gives a more refulgent light than they generally do in
England. At such times I have thought of your boy pointing out the different
planets, but how is my fat and fair Boy George, if he keeps but his health I
foretell him as bright star in your family.
________________newspaper enclosing a paper on moral reform and have now,
I think, 50 papers if you should like them. They can easily be transmitted.
They won’t be amusing to your sons. I received your letter 5 Nov. on the
27th Dec. a Doncaster paper on 3rd July, the Scotsman
paper with the Doncaster post mark 22 March and the Stamford on the lst of
this month which I perceive are all from you. The first paper had a card
enclosed with Mr. Hull written on it, the second being from Doncaster. Were
you jealous of Mrs. B. in the third I notice your request and now complying
with hoping whatever errors is in it arises from the want of a college
education. You perhaps have read in your papers the Acts of Congress passed
this Session and the large surplus of Revenue in hand, 45 million of dollars
which is to be divided amongst the different states, 3 million is the share
of New York State which is again to be divided according to the population
of each county, this Renssalaer County is endeavoring to have it
appropriated to the endowment of schools which I think they will obtain.
They are generally very zealous in forwarding mental improvements. Many good
schools are now here and well attended with professors of all sorts. None of
your close Oxford systems. A Mrs. Willard has a female seminary here
counting above 200 scholars, the largest establishment I have ever seen.
Indeed the formation of Temperance Society Schools and Religious
Instruction seems to be the leading idea of all classes. There is three
Presbyterian, two Wesleyan, two Episcopalian, one Universalist and one
Catholic Church besides other small places of worship, one I understand
where the Negroes attend. Some of them are built of wood, other of brick and
stone. The interiors are fitted up in most elegant stile – all the aisles
are carpeted and cushions to the seats and to kneel on, nay they are even
furnished with spittoons which seems quite requisite – boys are not older
than your son Gervas – is to be seen smoking here.
The clergy are all paid by voluntary contributions and some of them has
very good salaries. Indeed the collections in the churches are done by
ticket, the men only subscribing, writing on the slip what they intend
giving. 10,20 or more dollars is a very usual donation. Indeed each sect
view with the other to forward subscriptions for the public good but from
the vast extent of territory, the demand for missions and other
circumstances connected therewith much is yet to be done more especially in
the new formed settlements. In the Texas territory which since they have
gained their independence from the Mexican yoke is fast filling up with
emigrants, I understand there is not a single place of public worship,
although it is three times as large as England and perhaps the finest
country on the globe. You must bear in mind this forms no part of the United
States but is an independent nation of itself although they have made
overtures to congress to be admitted into the union. When I arrived at New
York, it was in a very unsettled state and many large tracts of land filled
with wild horses was offered at a cent per acre, since their independence
has be acknowledged, I suppose it has risen a hundred per cent.
Where I think of settling is in the state of Illinois, what they term the
far west, in Sagamon county on the River Sagamon between the River Illinois
and the Missouri about 39 degrees north and 91 west. It now counts about
16,000 settlers and where I hope to find the climate sufficiently temperate
for standard peach trees – iron stone abound there – and a sufficiency
of timber as well as prairie. Steamboat navigation is also in great
abundance and communication with the Missouri, Ohio the Wabash and other
navigable rivers with the Missouri as the outlet to New Orleans and
communication by railroad to Lake Michigan. My route from here is to
Buffalo, 366 miles, steamboat via Lake Erie to Detroit, 220 miles down
Illinois River to the head of navigation.
********************
A great deal of cedar, the Black plum so common in England, bears very
heavy crops and many people in the city has them in front of their houses
and sidewalks. In the streets trees are planted for shade which has a very
pleasing appearance and cooling shade in summer. Manure for land in never
thought of, consequently you may judge of their efficiency in Horticulture.
Its my firm opinion, an industrious clever gardener might do very well
indeed, more especially in the different sorts of vegetables, they could be
sold at almost any price (cauliflower is hardly known) nor have I seen a
York or Early cabbage of any sort nor yet savory or any other curly green.
Celery sells very dear, say_____per head. Have never seen any black currants
and gooseberries/ The price of labour is about one dollar per day or perhaps
12 to fifteen dollars per month and keep that is in meat, drinks, washing
and lodgings but this is _____more labourers, few if any that has the least
knowledge of producing being in such situations. There is plenty of land
suitable for gardening to be had and if a man has not capital, it is
possible to go on shares with the landlord both in gardens and farms, the
exact conditions of which depends on circumstances, but for instance
yourselves, you and John, he might be employed by day at some earning
sufficient to keep you all until the produce was ready for market and in a
season ______________sufficient to your going
*******************
time calls to my remembrance your last request. Certainly should have
done sooner had not I known, from William, that my letter must contain to
you lines which it was impossible for him to know of for one or two months.
Our passage you no doubt have heard all about either through or by those
received from Brooklyn. We tool steamboat to this place 160 miles up river
on the 15th of June where we have resided ever since. Very good
house and are all employed at one factory. Edward and self by the place
where have hither______________. With respect to gardening_________infancy,
few, very few, individuals however have gardens of any description attached
to their dwellings, which arises from the difficulty of getting experienced
help in that occupation. Those that do cultivate garden produce seems
careless of raising any but the commonest sort. In most instances their
gardens are planted with cabbage, the large white sort which they let stand
until they have a hard full head, then pull by the roots and brings them to
market, roots and all for which they obtain from 3 to 6cents each (a cent an
English halfpenny; amongst the cabbage at intervals of three or four yards,
they plant pumpkins which they cut and sell, the rest is to feed their pigs
and mix with the heads of Indian corn and so feed swine (a most slovenly
extravagant mode). Also parsnips, carrots, turnips and squashes, last of
which mixed up the same as boiled stew is very fine. Also very good potatoes
here (Irish potatoes) also sweet potatoes, a form more resembling a carrot
than anything else, the finest summer fruit such as apricots, peaches, and
fine apples come from Long Island where I understand the last mentioned grow
almost ________sold here for little more than ____________ _______